Mad Doll Doctor

This composition head was a mess, but I liked it because of the interesting bangs. Most of her paint had already cracked and fallen off. With a doll this damaged all you can do is remove the rest of the paint and start fresh. I used an X-acto knife to pop off the remaining pieces, being careful not to cut into the exposed composition or my exposed fingers. I have heard of doll doctors using various chemicals to remove paint, however, many of the chemicals that eat paint, also eat the glue binding the composition, and can soften the parts, even melt the doll’s features away.

I am also a bit obsessive about things, I actually like to pick things off…it’s really a bad deal when I encounter a hanging strip of wallpaper or peeling paint, especially if it’s in someone else’s house, I simply must peel it off…don’t even get me started on sunburns…it’s all I can do to stop myself from peeling complete strangers!

Always wear safety glasses when you pick paint, it can fly off at a great velocity, not something you want hitting your eyeball. It’s also best to do it outside or on a drop cloth because when you are finished you will have about a million little chips of paint around you, on you, possibly in you–I once found a piece in my ear. Some of the pieces may be stubborn and you have to chip away at them, maybe even use a bit of lacquer thinner to soften it. Use this VERY sparingly as it will eat your doll part, and use it outside or in a well ventilated area, as it will also eat your brain.

When all the paint has been removed, give the part a light sanding with a fine grit sandpaper. Now we begin checking for cracks, splits, holes, dings, or spots where your X-acto knife may have accidentally gouged the composition. I use a product called Paper Clay to fill small cracks. For large cracks or missing areas, like a chipped nose or ear, I use Apoxie Sculpt. Have I mentioned how much I LOVE Apoxie Sculpt?

Surface preparation is one of the points that separates the sheep from the goats. I can’t stress this enough, you MUST properly prepare the surface, it needs to be absolutely smooth. Pits and cracks cannot be filled in later with paint. If you paint over a poorly finished surface, all those little imperfections are going to show and you will not get that gorgeous candy coated-look of the compo’s original antique “skin”. It’s all about surface, surface, surface.

When you fill a small dent or crack, do not overfill it. Paper Clay doesn’t expand or shrink much, if at all, and it isn’t especially fun to sand, so make sure the repair is level and smooth. A bit of water on your fingertip will smooth it out nicely. The same applies to Apoxie Sculpt. When you think you have every dent and crack filled, set the part aside to dry.

Once the part is dry you can give it a light sanding, with fine grit paper. If you get too vigorous you may make a “scar ” in the repair will you will have to re-repair, so take it easy. When you are satisfied with the surface take a damp (not wet) rag and lightly wipe down the areas of repair. This will give it an overall smoother appearance.

I always give the head a light coat of gesso. This give the paint I will use later a good surface to adhere to, and it helps show up any dents or dings I might have somehow missed. Other dolldoctors use many other things, but gesso seems to work for me. When the gesso has dried I give it a light sanding, making sure to blend out any brush lines or blops. If you should happen to find any dents or dings, grab the Paper Clay…

This head has tin eyes, which unfortunately are set in with a thin metal rod that is firmly embedded in the composition, instead of the squeeze-type, slider bar mechanisms. (like the one below)

I could remove these eyes–I usually do remove them, but these types of rods can be very difficult to remove, they require a great deal of strength and you run the risk of damaging the head, the eyes or both. Since I’m not particularly eager to further damage the composition and get my carpals tunneling (and I’m somewhat lazy) , I have decided to leave the eyes in. To protect them I have reached inside the head and turned the eyes completely to their backside…see picture if this makes no sense. Eyelashes and irises are now looking downward inside the head.

If the eyes are rusted in place and won’t twist, you can lie the head down so that eyes close, then stuff some paper or cloth inside the head to keep them closed while you paint. In the past I have also, placed a thin pieces of vinyl, (like from a really cheapy thin shower curtain) over the front of the eyes to protect them. It’s a little tricky, you have to push the eyes in slightly and carefully slip the vinyl in, being careful not to damage the eyelashes, but sometimes it’s the best solution, if removing the eyes mechanism is likely to split the head or ruin the eyes. As you can see, I did remove her teeth and tongue piece.

After the coat of gesso you are ready to begin painting. I usually begin with a few coats of brushed on paint, before I switch to airbrush for the final coats.

I prefer to use enamel paint. It is more durable, and to me, looks more like the original antique finish. However, it is also more toxic and care has to be used when airbrushing with it, you REALLY do not want to breathe in the mist. In warm weather I airbrush outside in a sheltered area (away from gnats, leaves, dandelion fluff…or anything else that might stick to wet paint) In the winter I use a paint booth with ventilation and a respiratory mask.

I have had very good results with Plastic-kote flat white enamel paint, it dries very fast and the flat white mixed with Testors enamel in light tan, makes a great skin color for compo dolls.

I like to use flat paint and then give the doll a nice coat of varnish sealer for a satiny sheen when I am finished painting. This is not the only type or color of paint you can use, or the only method of using it, mind you, it’s just what works best for me. Sometimes I add a little yellow, a bit of brown to match shades for small repairs. I don’t worry so much about getting just the right color for the early coats. Matching paint is trial and error, it isn’t something you can be taught. Just play with it, until you get the right color. Remember too, the paint will dry slightly darker, so do a small spot, let it dry and adjust paint color if needed.

I use a very soft, new artist’s brush for painting, as coarse brushes leave brush marks. After each coat I let the piece dry thoroughly then come back and give it a light sanding. I brush on at least three coats before I am ready to airbrush. I will talk about airbrushing in part 2.

As you can see the skin tone on the early coats is a bit too pink,  the later coats will be the exact color I want the doll to end up with.